Jewish North African head adornment : Traditions and Transition Garments

Garments, head and foot apparel and jewellery comprise the basic clothing repertoire of man. These vestments are primarily dictated by the wearer's climate and environs and, further, reflect the wearer's ethnic affiliation, social and familial status. Exhibitions and museum collections offer a glimpse into the rich variety of headgear characteristic of diaspora Jews: decorated skuU-caps; headbands and head ornaments; turbans and head scarves, as well as shawls and wraps that covered the body from head to foot. Headdresses exist from Europe, Central Asia, Irán, Iraq, Kurdistan, Yemen, the Balkans and, as shall be focused upon in this text, North África. The head apparel and omamentation under discussion in this article were crafted primarily during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. However, it must be noted that Jewish garments and head apparel are known to reflect age-old cultural traditions. The artistic assemblage of head adomments was not, however, uniquely Jewish. The design repertoire of eastern Jewish headdresses was given inspiration also from the Muslim environment. Both populations, in continual fear of idolatry, tumed to symbols rich in hidden meanings and to colours ripe with magical properties. The adornments under consideration here were those worn by the Jewish populace during both ceremonial and festive occasions. Festive garb, including omamented headgear, were used in ceremonies of the life cycle ^ and on Jewish holidays .̂ Undoubtedly the most exquisite items were worn by the bride and groom on their wedding day. The Song of Songs 3:11 reflects upon the age oíd custom of head adornment: «Go forth, O daughters of Zion, and behold King Solomon with the crown with which his mother crowned him on the day of his wedding...»». The Jews of North África engaged in three main crafts. They were silver and goldsmiths, embroiderers of silk and gold thread, and artisan-tailors.


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RDTP, LI, 2, 1996 N I T Z A BEHROUZI The focus of this article is on one facet, head adornment, from within the entire repertoire of Jewish head attire used by the traditional and religious populace at the time of their major ceremonial, festive and familial functions.Consequently, the skills of particular note for this study are the crafts of gold working and embroidery -occupations practiced by the Jews and passed from father to son throughout the generations.
HlSTORICAL BACKGROUND The explosión of settlement in North West África or as it is also known, the Maghreb^, during the late 15th and early l6th centuries was brought about by the expulsión of the Spanish Jews in 1492 and of the Portuguese Jews in 1497.This was further supplemented by the many Jewish refugees of other origins who found their way to the Maghreb.Once in North África the Sephardic^ arrivals settled in the port towns and large interior cities of Morocco, Tunisia and elsewhere in North África.As recent immigrants, they differed from their native Jewish brothers who had settled in North África many years before.These new arrivals resided in settlements referred to as magorashim, within which they preserved their congregational hegemony and native Spanish language.Further, the European background of these new arrivals provided them with the tools to become commercial and political agents to foreign establishments.Though tempered with time, the Sepharadim succeeded in maintaining their high-level artistic skills and, as in Spain, continued to produce jewellery and clothing with strong Spanish influences.This cultural heritage can be noted in the masterpiece of Jewish urban garb known as the el-Keswa el-Kebirah or "Great Dress".This gown, with its accompanying jewellery, served as bridal wear and, thereafter, as attire for festive occasions.

JEWELLERY AND EMBROIDERY
Jewellery production and embroidery work are ancient crafts which played a central role in the beautification of head adornment.In addition, this particular art form highlights ethnographical as well as commercial.
trade and political relations between the various Mediterranean countries.This was illustrated by the craftsmen's usage of a multitude of motif and design sources, as well as the variety and types of precious materials employed in the craft.
The goldsmith craft, the spinning of metal threads for embroidery and the striking of coins were occupations practiced by the Jews and passed from father to son.The expert goldsmith mastered the various crafts connected with his profession -from smithing to the preparation of gold threads for embroidery.The attitude of Islam towards those working in metáis originated in superstitions which prevailed amongst the Arabs and which, with time, passed into the annals of Islam.Goldsmithing, which in the eyes of the faithful 'falsely beautifies the world', was to Muslims as one with the trade of money lending.Thus, the Jewish population, situated on the lower echelons of the social ladder, were, through necessity, forced to take upon themselves a multitude of crafts forbidden to the Muslims.
Various threads of Islamic influence take concrete form in the items produced by Jewish craftsmen, in this case the goldsmiths and embroiderers.The production of amulets, for example, indicates how the Jews of the Maghreb were influenced by the superstitions prevalent amongst their Muslim neighbours.The significance of the amulet aróse from the magical qualities associated with the materials, forms and colours employed in its creation.These elements gave the amulet, as jewellery, a function of significance within traditional family ceremonies.
Jewellery, primarily urban jewellery, reflects the influences brought to the Maghreb by the Spanish Jews expelled during the Age of the Inquisition.In addition, other waves of immigrants passing back and forth between Andalusia (Christian Spanish culture) and the Maghreb (Muslim Arable culture) were also transporters of original artistic motifs.The urban jewellery of North África was inspired and influenced primarily by the decorative art and architecture of North África, which in its turn was influenced by the Spanish influxes.
Scholars agree that Moroccan embroidery was directly influenced by the Spanish craft.This is reflected in the vocabulary of the Moroccan trade which derives from the Spanish: Qíxhxoiácxy/Berdada, 'the threading of a neeále'/Sartal.
Gold embroidery derives its beauty from the interesting combination of glittering gold threads against a lavish velvet background of black, red, purple, green and brown hues.The gold threads employed in the craft were painstakingly prepared.Gilded silver rods were heated and passed through a perforated implement, each perforation being smaller than the previous one, until a thread a tenth of a millimeter thick was produced.This rounded thread was then pressed between two wheels to form a flat band.Finally, the thin gold band was wound around a silken thread suitable for embroidery and weaving.In general, silk thread embroidery was a trade performed by Muslim women while embroidery in gold was the occupation of Jews -men and women alike.
The most important function of traditional jewellery and embroidery was within the ceremonies of the life-cycle, especially the wedding ceremony.The tradition of adoming the head is echoed in both the Jewish Bible and the Talmud'^.

ADORNMENT: THE ORNAMENTAL REPERTOIRE
In Sunni^, Maghreb, within a Muslim society which also banned the representation of human images on religious articles, the Jews managed to express the vitality of divinity without committing idolatry.In many instances, the design and shape repertoire of Jewish jewellery and ceremonial objects were inspired by the Muslim environment of the Maghreb itself and by the Hispano-Mauresque art of the 8th-13th centuries which infiltrated architecture, popular culture and the visual arts.
The Jewish artisan, as a result of religious prohibitions, endeavoured to embellish his works -in this instance, jewellery-with symbols rich in hidden meanings: floral and vegetal motifs; geometrical designs; avian depictions; and khamsa'^ representations.

Floral and Vegetal Motifs
The most common floral representations were the five-petalled rosette, acanthus leaves and entwined vine tendrils.The primary vegetal pattern is the "Tree of Life" which within Jewish tradition represents the Torah ^.
The "Tree of Life", symbolizing as it does life, death and resurrection, is represented by a number of stylized forms such as the lotus, the pomegranate and the Menorah ^.One of the more dominant, representative ^ The Talmud is the primary source of Jewish religious law, consisting of the Mishnah and Gemara.
^ Sunni is one of the two main sects of orthodox Islam (the other being Shiatí).^ Note the text pertaining to the khamsa located within the section on Adornment: The Ornamental Repertoire.
^ Torah or Pentateuch.^ The Menorah is a seven-branched candelabrum which was used in the Temple of Jemsalem.Today, the Menorah is an emblem of Judaism and of the state of Israel forms was the palmette.In other applications, such as on Chanukkah^^ lamps, the "Tree of Life" is occasionally flanked with a bird and a lion.This arrangement is designed to represent the universe, since symmetry underlies the balance of Creation.The "Tree of Life" motif commonly appeared within the Jewish world, but was also basic to the Hispano-Mauresque repertoire.Aside from the appearance of this motif on or as an integral element of the head adornment ^^ examples of usage may be seen on Jewish sarcophagi and ossuaries in Eretz Israel ^-dating to as far back as the Ist century A.D. In Morocco, embroidered gold thread was a popular means of embellishing the "Tree of Life" motif on Torah mantles.These embroideries, with their more naturalistic artistic style, originated within European decorative art and traditions.They entered North África via the commercial ^^ Chanukkah lamps were often formed as buildings, symbolic of two issues: the "Festival of Inauguration" ("Chanukkah") of the Temple and, also, of the peak of Jewish aspiration -to rebuild the Holy Temple in Jerusalem.Today, the Chanukkah lamp is used in and representative of the Jewish Festival of Lights, also known as Chanukkah.^^ Note the description of "The Brass Crown" located in the section entitled Urban Head Adornment.Notable are several Torah mantles from Spanish Morocco decorated with stylized palmettes and naturalistic floral motifs.Further, these same motifs illuminate the ketubot or marriage contracts of the Jewish populace.

Geometrical Designs
Geometrical designs were very common within the Jewish and Islamic ornamental worlds as a result of the aforementioned religious prohibitions; consequently, craftsmen within both traditions sought after puré forms.
Amongst the geometrical designs most popular in the Maghreb was the triangle.This form occurs in a number of combinations.The triangle may stand alone.It may be depicted with a circle drawn in the center, thus creating the representation of an eye.The triangles may also be laid end to end forming a rhombus.Finally, there may be two triangles laid upon each other and pointing in opposite directions, creating a form familiar as the Jewish Star of David or a pentacle representing Khatim Suleiman ^-\ Two rectangles laid crosswise, a form better known as a cross, was another common geometrical form.Within the culture of the Maghreb it was believed of it to "ward off the evil eye to the four winds".
Another shape, commonly found within golden embroideries and as head adornments, was the spirally-shaped star.The popularity of this motif was derived from its connection to the stages of the life-cycles: birth, growth, development and, further, destiny and the infinite.Consequently, the spiral star decorates objects connected to Jewish life-cycle ceremonies.
The crescent motif dates back to ancient Near Eastern civilizations.It represents renewal, strength and rebirth.These meanings are preserved within the Hebrew words Chodesh and Molad.The former word is defined as 'month', though the meaning 'new' may be derived from the root letters of ch d s.The latter word means 'birth'.The crescent further symbolizes attributes such as might, daring and prestige.The Book of Isaiah (3:18) mentions a crescent-shaped jewel worn by the 'Daughters of Zion': «In that day the Lord will take away the finery of the anklets, and the headbands and the crescents [necklaces]».The ornithological worid appealed to Jewish artists, though it was a design store which appeared within many other cultures as welL The bird motif was a popular decorative emblem early in the cultural traditions of Spain and North África.It is found on both Spanish silks of the 12th century and the Islamic art of the Middle Ages.Twelfth century North African examples of textiles decorated with birds are considered to carry designs which were originally Spanish and which entered North África through the migrating Jews.The typical format saw a bird or a combination of two birds facing each other separated by a vegetal motif.These decorative representations appear in lace works as well as Islamic and Jewish embroideries, though in the latter the bird symbolizes the soul, the spiritual, and the Spirit and Compassion of God.
Jewish North African ornamentation regularly features ornithological motifs embroidered on the breast cover of a wedding costume and/or on the head adornment.As mentioned above, birds may appear individually or in pairs.The avian motif appeared on jewellery, on wedding and celebration costumes, for it was also a symbolic representation of harmony The ornaments used to adorn the brow, hair and headgear of the female wearer were comprised of several units.Each element, with its associated magical qualities, was able to stand alone as an piece of jewellery or together as a set.The combination of several magical elements -or, rather, jewellery items-, within one adornment only further increased its magical valué.
The following section will outline the various types and uses of head adornment common amongst the urban population of the Maghreb.
The Embroidered Crown, designed to be placed atop the head, featured a row of varied-shaped pendants, such as khamsot and crescents, which adorned the brow of the wearer.This particular example of head adornment was made of quilted cloth heavily embroidered with lines of pearls, beads, geometrically shaped silver or brass plugs and precious or semi-precious stones.The stones employed in the beautification of the crown were emeralds, carnelian, turquoise, coral and yellow amber.The white of the pearls symbolized purity, happiness and blessings, while the colour and shine of the stones provided protection against the 'evil eye'.The fullness of design leads to an impression of horror vacuii or a fear of empty spaces.This was and continúes to be reflected in the Islamic attitude toward decorative art.A further characteristic of this crown type is the presence, notable from the above-mentioned motif repetoire, of rosette and vegetal patterns.
The Tadg adorned the forehead of its female wearers through its combination of individual openwork panel elements or twigz, decorated with floral designs and precious stones.It has been discovered that individual twigz or "small crowns" were also utilized as items of head jewellery.This style is reminiscent of the head adornment favoured by royal women during the European Renaissance.
The Swalf is an adornment which takes the form of a band of stiff cloth trimmed with black threads.The material bank is embroidered with gold thread in a variety of designs forms characteristic of the North African goldsmith craft: geometrical; vegetal; and, spiral shapes.The lower section of the swalf gives the appearance of a wig as it is comprised of black silk threads which trail over the wearers shoulders and back.This head adornment style was used primaríly by the older, respected women of the community on special occasions.
The Tasifipha is a typical form of head attire from the Deira or Dadas Valleys of Morocco.It combines quilted cloth with decorative elements such as coins, coral or silver panels.The Judaica coUection of the Eretz Israel Museum features a tasifipha which carnes a depiction reminiscent of a sombrero amongst the coins and panels.The probable origin of this  headband style crown may be found within the oíd artistic sources of Greco-Roman and Byzantine art.
The Brass Crown of the Eretz Israel Museum coUection is an unusual work created by Moroccan jewellery-smith who immigrated to Israel during the 1950's.As an artisan, he desired to continué the tradition of head adomment, but was required to adjust himself and his craft to the changing tastes and styles of the modern era.
The crown was designed from openwork brass with an upper edge scalloped with stylized palmettes and a pair of open-winged birds.The body is characterized by a vegetal design, while the base is shaped by rounds of brass surmounted by stylized foliage.The center of the crown is adorned with a large blue semi-precious stone which carnes with it the symbolic significance of an amulet against the 'evil eye'.The artisan succeeded in creating a crown which incorporates elements of Jewish ceremonial art and traditional motifs.This tradition of incorporating and transferring stylized motifs from one functional área to another was wellknown in Morocco.A typical example was the creation of Torah finials from pieces of antique jewellery.In the instance of the crown we see a reversal of this practice.Instead of integrating secular objects into holy ones we see that this modern artist has, in order to earn a living, brought symbols from Jewish ceremonial life into the creation of a modern work of head adornment.
Traditional crowns designed with bands and loops of chain and pendants decorated with filegree and granulations were known in Tunisia and Algeria as well as in Morocco.In Tunisia, other elements such as fish which symbolized fertility were added to the general repertoire of geometrical, floral and bird designs.In Algeria another technique was utilized by the Jewish craftsmen -enamel work.Normally the artisans employed the use of green, blue and yellow colours to which was added red coral.
The tradition of head adornment is an ancient one which accompanied and embellished Jewish life throughout the festivals and life-cycle celebrations.It did, however, find itself in a process of social and economic change.The gradual 20th century departure from traditional costumes and subsequent preference for westem attire lead to a decline in the status of the head adornment and, further, brought about the decline of the goldsmiths craft.A step in this decline saw parts of the head adommentjewellery being broken up and sold as simple decorative jewellery pieces to tourists without regard or mention of their primary function as head adomment.In some cases the jewellery pieces have been lost forever as they were melted down as a source of precious metáis.These overall trends of the twentieth century greatly affected the inventory of traditional Jewish ceremonial jewellery available today.However, the gold thread and jewellery head adornments that have survived in museum and personal collections until the present vividly portray the achievements of the past goldsmiths craft and provide a testimony to a way of life in North África which was enriched by the exiles of Spain ^^.
The author discusses the craftsmanship of head adornment, particularly jewellery and embroidery, made by diáspora Jews in the Maghreb in the late 19th and the 20th centuries.The religious meaning of the iconographic elements involved was part of an artistic tradition that goes back to the work of the Spanish Jews before 1492; nevertheless, the craftsmen had to deal with the Islamic environment of the societies in which they lived.The 20th century has seen a gradual departure from these traditional patterns and a subsequent preference for those of contemporary western culture.
^^ Eretz Israel or Land of Israel.(c) Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas Licencia Creative Commons 3.0 España (by-nc) http://rdtp.revistas.csic.esRDTP, LI, 2, 1996 N I T Z A BEHROUZI relations estabUshed and maintained between the immigrant Spanish communities and the respective governments of the English, Italian and Dutch which flourished alternatively during the years.This enhanced style is iliustrated within the Judaica collection of the Eretz Israel Museum.